Hace meses que Braulio Maurio Flores no visita su barca. Lo que un día fue el segundo lago más grande de Bolivia es ahora una vasta planicie de fango y sal no comestible. El agua ya estaba contaminada por las actividades mineras de la zona y los peces morían, pero en diciembre el lago despareció por completo. “Cerquita parece, lejos es”, dice Braulio mientras se encamina al que hasta hace poco era su segundo hogar. Se extraña cuando le preguntan si también su padre o su abuelo eran pescadores, los uru-muratos recuerdan haber vivido siempre junto el lago. Este les daba la vida y ahora tan solo se escucha la brisa y los pies hundiéndose en los cristales de sal. No quedan más que plumas secas de flamencos, los restos de algunos barcos y otros que se pierden en esa inmensidad estéril.
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